I am not shocked at all about the new/ maybe old scandal surrounding Brunello di Montalcino. After the first day at the Vinitaly I have seen so many people interested on wine that nothing touched me even this scandal enveloping one of Italy's most prestigious wine: Brunello.
Reading on the main newspapers "Brunello under fire" "Brunello another big wine scandal" "Clandestin grapes in the mithical Brunello" I truly feel very sad.
Italy is the country of scandals starting by the politic world to the buffalo mozzarella....made in Italy is schecking for such a sort of bad news!
But I think there is more behind the brunellogate!
It was 7 years ago and during my first Course on Master of wine with Slow Food I remember very well a long discussion regarding blended wines and they were already talking and reporting that for sure few numbers of leading Tuscan producers were adding different kind of grapes in their wines.
Brunello wine must be 100% sangiovese grape and the scandal is based because many producers have been incriminated for adding merlot, cabernet sauvignon to their wines. WHY? So this is the question.....
Why would winemakers want to mess around with brunello?
Through the large number of Brunellos everyone can notice the diversity of Style and flavors under this denomination.
SANGIOVESE grape is pale ruby, fresh and acidic, austere, nervous with flavors of bitter cherry and smoky....but not dark, dense wine, plummy, mature, tasting like chocolate.
Some of those wines develop in that way aging in small french oak barrels but sometime they become so mild and ready to drink in few months which is not so regular for making BRUNELLO.
These wines surely need 10 if not 20 years of aging....but in this world where no one wants to wait this is the risk we run for asking too much to the market and to the nature....if this wine has to have particular tastes and no others we should accept it and maybe LEARN A NEW WAY TO DRINK. I am waiting!